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In 2016, Bill Cunningham, a renowned street photographer from New York, passed away at the age of 87. The fashion world and those fortunate enough to have been his subjects, fondly recalled his ability to capture the most incredible fashion display: the one found on the streets.
In the 1960s, Cunningham started his photography career after closing his hat store and serving a short time in the military. He gained recognition in the 1980s for his column, On the Street, in the New York Times. It is evident that Cunningham has a keen eye for capturing the sidewalks and crosswalks as their own fashion runway.
In the 2010 film “Bill Cunningham New York,” we get a glimpse into the life of the man behind the camera. At 80 years old, the documentary shows him riding around on his bicycle, easily recognizable in his iconic blue worker’s jacket. He moves swiftly among the bustling yellow taxis, always ready to capture the perfect shot.
Cunningham’s effortless demeanor greatly contributed to his talent for identifying the most stylish leopard print or coat with the most elegant collar. He was known for his lack of interest in celebrity status and casually mentioned his early clients, including Ginger Rogers, Joan Crawford, and Marilyn Monroe, at his hat shop. Despite being aware of the prominent figures at social gatherings, he was described as a true believer in equal rights, prioritizing the clothes above all else.
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In the documentary, various well-known individuals are interviewed, such as former magazine editors Iris Apfel (known for her eccentric style, even at 102) and Annette De La Renta. However, it is Anna Wintour who sums it up perfectly by stating, “We all dress for Bill.”
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When he wasn’t out on the street, he spent his time in a cubicle at the New York Times offices. Here, we witness the meticulous process of creating Cunningham’s pages. While the focus of the week may be on graphic print T-shirts or “shoes and legs,” Cunningham’s discerning eye insists on perfect layout to best cater to the reader. He has a knack for spotting trends (after all, he sees them first) – from the denim dresses and leggings of the 80s to the fanny packs and baggy pants of the 90s.
Cunningham’s focus was on photographing luxury, but his personal life was modest and secluded. His apartment is filled with fashion literature and drawers overflowing with negatives of all his images. His clothing hangs from cabinet knobs and his bed is situated between shelves. He has never possessed a television and lacks a kitchen.
At the time of filming the documentary, Cunningham has some hearing loss, but he finds joy in what he sees. His enthusiasm is contagious and will ensure that you never look down while walking again, for fear of missing a stylish passerby.
Scattered among the pages are anecdotes from individuals whom Cunningham frequently captured on camera, such as a man who fashioned his trousers from an old ottoman and his matching suit jacket from a sofa. The book also includes significant moments from the fashion industry, including Cunningham sitting in the coveted front row at Paris Fashion Week, a city he believes sharpens one’s visual senses. Despite his age and memories of photographing Yves Saint Laurent’s debut ready-to-wear show in the 1960s, Cunningham maintains his enthusiastic energy while taking photos. It’s remarkable how times have evolved.
The documentary “Bill Cunningham New York” focuses on fashion, but it also highlights the dedication of a self-taught artist. Without Bill Cunningham, New York would have missed out on his unique perspective. He proved that beauty can be found on every street corner, as he famously said, “He who seeks beauty will find it.”
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Bill Cunningham New York is streaming on Prime Video and Apple TV+. For more recommendations of what to stream in Australia, click here
Source: theguardian.com
